It was a cold, cloudy Saturday at Doheny Beach. The waves were crashing about ankle high and the water was FREEZING! So naturally, it was the perfect day to go Surfing!
We met Uncle Jeff and Aunt Jen at the beach with their big surf and paddle boards. I suited up in my wet suit and life jacket and headed in with Dad.
Dad put me on the board and we started out into the waves for my first surfing adventure. We quickly realized that sitting was not the best position for me since I fell back every time we went over a swell. So onto my knees/stomach I went.
Dad hopped on the back and paddled us out. I loved going over the waves and didn't even mind the cool spray in my face.
We turned the paddle board around and waited for the perfect set to roll in. When the wave came Dad paddled like mad and told me to stand up.
It is harder than it looks! I mostly made it up to my knees and stood up once. Too bad Mom and Aunt Jen were too busy cheering and screaming to remember to take a picture! After a couple rides Dad thought I was ready to ride solo.
Here is my only solo ride...taking it all the way into the shore. By this time my lips were blue and I was shivering...but totally stoked on surfing!
1 comment:
Awesome Max! Surfing is definitely your sport! Now enough with the surfing...I want camping pictures!
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